To Peel or Not to Peel…………..
Our peels are designed very carefully to be safe, effective and gratifying. However, we are a lone voice in saying pigmentation problems should not be peeled with the standard methods of peeling. Specialised methods of peeling are necessary and should be used in combination with topical vitamins. You can be confident that with the Environ peeling system Cinergee uses, you will never ever have any disasters.
The Environ Concept of Cool Peeling
Exfoliation is thought by many to be a good way of keeping the skin healthy and it is believed that exfoliation should be done regularly. The principles of Environ are based on the physiology of the skin cells and therefore the standpoint is generally against unnecessary exfoliation. We have to remember that it is the duty of every differentiated keratinocyte (skin cell) to eventually die, so that it can form part of the outer horny layer, which under ideal conditions should be compact. We need that ultra-fine outer layer of skin cells, because it is our only protection against the environment. If these skin cells are shed too early, the horny layer will not be an adequate barrier and water will easily be lost. This can result in environmental toxins easily moving into the skin.
On the other hand, if the horny cells do not release from each other they create a thicker than normal layer of horny skin cells (eg callouses, psoriasis and other hyper-keratotic conditions), this prevents penetration of the special active ingredients we use at Cinergee. The best way to treat this is to do a mild peel to remove the excess horny layer and yet maintain the water-proofing barrier qualities of the skin.
It is the philosophy of Cinergee that heavy peeling is over-valued and should seldom be done. Our peels are gentle enough to use on a variety of skins, and give us a choice from a micro-level peel to noticeable peeling.
The general rule is that for someone with a rough, wrinkled and uneven skin tone, a peel will provide faster results in restoring healthy skin. The restoration of healthy skin is utterly dependent on vitamins A, C and antioxidant nourishment. These essential ingredients are found in Cinergee’s Environ vitamin A ranges.
If you have relatively good skin, peeling is not vital, but it can still be valuable. The trend is to move away from heavy peeling as the long term effects become obvious.
However, peeling has an important place in the treatment of:
• Congested/ problematic skin conditions
• Thick, course skin conditions with an uneven texture
Peeling should not be recommended as the only solution for treating uneven skin tone. When we peel the skin, we make it more vulnerable to penetration by UV light. This results in additional stimulus to melanocytes (pigment cells) to make melanin, or worse still a greater chance of DNA damage in the keratinocytes (skin cells) and melanocytes. This is why, when peeling has been considered successful, 12 months to several years later, the marks are bigger and darker than ever before. This is why at Cinergee we are against heavy peels and the use of micro-dermabrasions.
When the skin is enriched with vitamin A products, lighter peels may be applied…….with care………on isolated pigmented spots. Rather than use heavy peeling when the skin is pigmented, safer results are achieved by repetitive peeling.
Contra-indications to Peeling
• A minimum period of three weeks usage of Environ vitamin A is required before commencing intensive peel treatment. This ensures a better result, safer peeling and speedier healing.
• A minimum period of about 3-4 months after the use of cis-retionoic acid (Roaccutane). For delicate skins 6 – 12 months. During and after use of this medication, the skin is delicate and thin and the peel can go much deeper than intended.
• Recent use of any dermabrasion (incl. micro-). The skin is thinner than normal and the epidermis (outer skin layer) can be easily damaged by even light peels
• If you use sun beds or are exposed to excessive sun exposure, peeling is not suitable
• If you have Porphyria (abnormal metabolism)
• If you have diabetes or any other major illness you must have medical consent
• Light, cool peeling for 10-15 minutes has been shown to be effective and safe during pregnancy. Avoid heavy peels as a problem skin can be exacerbated by hormonal changes
• Radiation causes a thin skin, and heavy peeling can go deeper that intended. Caution is advised for light peels
• Do not peel 10 days prior or after waxing, electrolysis, extractions
• Herpes Labialis (fever blisters on the lips) are not a contra-indication to a peel, but be warned you may have an outbreak if a deeper peel is done
Skin Care After Peeling
• Avoid ALL sun exposure, the skin is thinner and vulnerable and sun damage can occur very easily
• A broad spectrum sunscreen must be applied daily
• Avoid exercise for the first 24 hours as this causes sweating and irritates the skin
• Avoid swimming in a pool or the sea for at least the first 24 hours as this may aggravate the skin
• Do not pick, rub, exfoliate or irritate the skin
• Avoid the use of Alpha Hydroxy Acid based products for 24 hours as they may sting
• Moisturise the skin adequately. Non-comedogenic make-up can be used
Summary Of Peel Results in Dyschromias
Light peels are effective for freckles and epidermal hyper-pigmentation, but less effective for solar lentigines (liver spots), melasma (dark pigmentation) and post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation
Light peels are not effective for naevi(birthmarks), seborrhoeic keratoses ( thick brown/ yellow thickening of facial skin) and dermal hyper-pigmentation
Moderately heavy peels are more effective for solar lentigines and some seborrhoeic keratoses
Heavy peels can aggravate pigmentation problems
Why are Environ Peels Different?
Environ is different from other companies producing peels, because Environ pioneered the production of acidic creams and gels instead of using acid solutions.
Since strong acid solutions are usually colourless, one might end up doing a deeper peel than intended as one would not be able to see where the skin has been treated once the solution dries. Also, when a strong acid is applied to the skin it burns a great deal.
Hence Environ made the ACM peels that are white creams:
• The concentration of acid used is low, so one cannot make a peel too deep unless one is careless.
• The product is left on the skin for a longer time – this gives the same effects as a strong concentration of acid without damaging the skin.
• A thicker layer can be applied, which would present more acid to the skin than a thin layer will – hence the peel can be made deeper if required, but this can be controlled.
• The white cream allows the therapist to see exactly where the acid has been applied, and one can also determine the thickness of the application.
So, the therapist by controlling the concentration of acid used, and the thickness of the application, one has an extremely versatile peeling system that is ‘fine-tuned’ by controlling the time that the peeling agent is left on the skin. This is a slower treatment than using a solution, but the safety and versatility are unparalleled.
Environ has also pioneered the thick low concentration acid gel (TCA-Pamgel):
• The revolutionary concept here is that the evaporation of water from the gel will cool the skin while the acid penetrates, so it makes it a ‘cool peel’.
• Also the acid is applied in layers. This helps to increase the concentration of the acid, without lowering the pH of the skin.
Effects of Peeling
• Superficial peels: visible effects barely perceptible
• Skin becomes dryer for a while
• Then skin becomes smoother
• Healthy cells survive
• Damaged cells are removed
• Promotes collagen formation
• Blackheads melted / removed
• Acne less active
• Reduces inflammation
• Kills bacteria to sterilize the skin
• Refines enlarged pores.
Photos For Cool Peels
Peels for softening wrinkles:-
Deep peels destroy the epidermis (upper skin) to make more collagen in the Dermis (lower skin)! Serial light peels minimise the destruction of the epidermis!
Peels for increasing collagen (anti-ageing):-
Light peels can be used on eyelides – notice the tightening / lifting of eye-area.
Peels for problematic skin (acne):-
Peeling agents sterilize acne pustules as a result of the acid pH. A weak acid like lactic or glycolic acid is all that is needed to control the infection and stop the acne eruption almost immediately.
I highly recommended Environ peels for problematic skin before resorting to antibiotics or Roaccutane, etc.
Peels for rosacea:-
If you are looking at having a peel, Cinergee has a wide range of peels – light to moderate. We do not use or recommend heavy peels. Use the form below or phone us on 6334 6885 to make a skin diagnosis appointment today